jeudi 14 mars 2019

Panic!


Time to Panic

The planet is getting warmer in catastrophic ways. And fear may be the only thing that saves us.
 By David Wallace-Wells

The age of climate panic is here. Last summer, a heat wave baked the entire Northern Hemisphere, killing dozens from Quebec to Japan. Some of the most destructive wildfires in California history turned more than a million acres to ash, along the way melting the tires and the sneakers of those trying to escape the flames. Pacific hurricanes forced three million people in China to flee and wiped away almost all of Hawaii’s East Island.

We are living today in a world that has warmed by just one degree Celsius (1.8 degrees Fahrenheit) since the late 1800s, when records began on a global scale. We are adding planet-warming carbon dioxide to the atmosphere at a rate faster than at any point in human history since the beginning of industrialization.

In October, the United Nations Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change released what has become known as its “Doomsday” report — “a deafening, piercing smoke alarm going off in the kitchen,” as one United Nations official described it — detailing climate effects at 1.5 and two degrees Celsius of warming (2.7 and 3.6 degrees Fahrenheit). At the opening of a major United Nations conference two months later, David Attenborough, the mellifluous voice of the BBC’s “Planet Earth” and now an environmental conscience for the English-speaking world, put it even more bleakly: “If we don’t take action,” he said, “the collapse of our civilizations and the extinction of much of the natural world is on the horizon.”

Scientists have felt this way for a while. But they have not often talked like it. For decades, there were few things with a worse reputation than “alarmism” among those studying climate change.

This is a bit strange. You don’t typically hear from public health experts about the need for circumspection in describing the risks of carcinogens, for instance. The climatologist James Hansen, who testified before Congress about global warming in 1988, has called the phenomenon “scientific reticence” and chastised his colleagues for it — for editing their own observations so conscientiously that they failed to communicate how dire the threat actually was.

That tendency metastasized even as the news from the research grew bleaker. So for years the publication of every major paper, essay or book would be attended by a cloud of commentary debating its precise calibration of perspective and tone, with many of those articles seen by scientists as lacking an appropriate balance between bad news and optimism, and labeled “fatalistic” as a result.

In 2018, their circumspection began to change, perhaps because all that extreme weather wouldn’t permit it not to. Some scientists even began embracing alarmism — particularly with that United Nations report. The research it summarized was not new, and temperatures beyond two degrees Celsius were not even discussed, though warming on that scale is where we are headed. Though the report — the product of nearly 100 scientists from around the world — did not address any of the scarier possibilities for warming, it did offer a new form of permission to the world’s scientists. The thing that was new was the message: It is O.K., finally, to freak out. Even reasonable.

This, to me, is progress. Panic might seem counterproductive, but we’re at a point where alarmism and catastrophic thinking are valuable, for several reasons.

The first is that climate change is a crisis precisely because it is a looming catastrophe that demands an aggressive global response, now. In other words, it is right to be alarmed. The emissions path we are on today is likely to take us to 1.5 degrees Celsius of warming by 2040, two degrees Celsius within decades after that and perhaps four degrees Celsius by 2100.

As temperatures rise, this could mean many of the biggest cities in the Middle East and South Asia would become lethally hot in summer, perhaps as soon as 2050. There would be ice-free summers in the Arctic and the unstoppable disintegration of the West Antarctic’s ice sheet, which some scientists believe has already begun, threatening the world’s coastal cities with inundation. Coral reefs would mostly disappear. And there would be tens of millions of climate refugees, perhaps many more, fleeing droughts, flooding and extreme heat, and the possibility of multiple climate-driven natural disasters striking simultaneously.

There are many reasons to think we may not get to four degrees Celsius, but globally, emissions are still growing, and the time we have to avert what is now thought to be catastrophic warming — two degrees Celsius — is shrinking by the day. To stay safely below that threshold, we must reduce greenhouse gas emissions by 45 percent from 2010 levels by 2030, according to the United Nations report. Instead, they are still rising. So being alarmed is not a sign of being hysterical; when it comes to climate change, being alarmed is what the facts demand. Perhaps the only logical response.

This helps explain the second reason alarmism is useful: By defining the boundaries of conceivability more accurately, catastrophic thinking makes it easier to see the threat of climate change clearly. For years, we have read in newspapers as two degrees of warming was invoked as the highest tolerable level, beyond which disaster would ensue. Warming greater than that was rarely discussed outside scientific circles. And so it was easy to develop an intuitive portrait of the landscape of possibilities that began with the climate as it exists today and ended with the pain of two degrees, the ceiling of suffering.

In fact, it is almost certainly a floor. By far the likeliest outcomes for the end of this century fall between two and four degrees of warming. And so looking squarely at what the world might look like in that range — two degrees, three, four — is much better preparation for the challenges we will face than retreating into the comforting relative normalcy of the present.
Fire in the Shasta-Trinity National Forest in California last summer, when more than a million acres burned in the state. Scientists cite climate change as a factor in California's increasingly destructive wildfire seasons.CreditNoah Berger/Associated Press

The third reason is while concern about climate change is growing — fortunately — complacency remains a much bigger political problem than fatalism. In December, a national survey tracking Americans’ attitudes toward climate change found that 73 percent said global warming was happening, the highest percentage since the question began being asked in 2008. But a majority of Americans were unwilling to spend even $10 a month to address global warming; most drew the line at $1 a month, according to a poll conducted the previous month.

Last fall, voters in Washington, a green state in a blue-wave election, rejected even a modest carbon-tax plan. Are those people unwilling to pay that money because they think the game is over or because they don’t think it’s necessary yet?

This is a rhetorical question. If we had started global decarbonization in 2000, according to the Global Carbon Project, we would have had to cut emissions by only about 2 percent per year to stay safely under two degrees of warming. Did we fail to act then because we thought it was all over already or because we didn’t yet consider warming an urgent enough problem to take action against? Only 44 percent of those surveyed in a survey last month cited climate change as a top political priority.

But it should be. The fact is, further delay will only make the problem worse. If we started a broad decarbonization effort today — a gargantuan undertaking to overhaul our energy systems, building and transportation infrastructure and how we produce our food — the necessary rate of emissions reduction would be about 5 percent per year. If we delay another decade, it will require us to cut emissions by some 9 percent each year. This is why the United Nations secretary-general, António Guterres, believes we have only until 2020 to change course and get started.

A fourth argument for embracing catastrophic thinking comes from history. Fear can mobilize, even change the world. When Rachel Carson published her landmark anti-pesticide polemic “Silent Spring,” Life magazine said she had “overstated her case,” and The Saturday Evening Post dismissed the book as “alarmist.” But it almost single-handedly led to a nationwide ban on DDT.

Throughout the Cold War, foes of nuclear weapons did not shy away from warning of the horrors of mutually assured destruction, and in the 1980s and 1990s, campaigners against drunken driving did not feel obligated to make their case simply by celebrating sobriety. In its “Doomsday” report, the United Nations climate-change panel offered a very clear analogy for the mobilization required to avert catastrophic warming: World War II, which President Franklin Roosevelt called a “challenge to life, liberty and civilization.” That war was not waged on hope alone.

But perhaps the strongest argument for the wisdom of catastrophic thinking is that all of our mental reflexes run in the opposite direction, toward disbelief about the possibility of very bad outcomes. I know this from personal experience. I have spent the past three years buried in climate science and following the research as it expanded into ever darker territory.

The number of “good news” scientific papers that I’ve encountered in that time I could probably count on my two hands. The “bad news” papers number probably in the thousands — each day seeming to bring a new, distressing revision to our understanding of the environmental trauma already unfolding.

I know the science is true, I know the threat is all-encompassing, and I know its effects, should emissions continue unabated, will be terrifying. And yet, when I imagine my life three decades from now, or the life of my daughter five decades from now, I have to admit that I am not imagining a world on fire but one similar to the one we have now. That is how hard it is to shake complacency. We are all living in delusion, unable to really process the news from science that climate change amounts to an all-encompassing threat. Indeed, a threat the size of life itself.

How can we be this deluded? One answer comes from behavioral economics. The scroll of cognitive biases identified by psychologists and fellow travelers over the past half-century can seem, like a social media feed, bottomless, and they distort and distend our perception of a changing climate. These optimistic prejudices, prophylactic biases and emotional reflexes form an entire library of climate delusion.

We build our view of the universe outward from our own experience, a reflexive tendency that surely shapes our ability to comprehend genuinely existential threats to the species. We have a tendency to wait for others to act, rather than acting ourselves; a preference for the present situation; a disinclination to change things; and an excess of confidence that we can change things easily, should we need to, no matter the scale. We can’t see anything but through cataracts of self-deception.

The sum total of these biases is what makes climate change something the ecological theorist Timothy Morton calls a “hyperobject” — a conceptual fact so large and complex that it can never be properly comprehended. In his book “Worst-Case Scenarios,” the legal scholar Cass Sunstein wrote that in general, we have a problem considering unlikely but potential risks, which we run from either into complacency or paranoia. His solution is a wonky one: We should all be more rigorous in our cost-benefit analysis.

That climate change demands expertise, and faith in it, at precisely the moment when public confidence in expertise is collapsing is one of its many paradoxes. That climate change touches so many of our cognitive biases is a mark of just how big it is and how much about human life it touches, which is to say, nearly everything.

And unfortunately, as climate change has been dawning more fully into view over the past several decades, all the cognitive biases that push us toward complacency have been abetted by our storytelling about warming — by journalism defined by caution in describing the scale and speed of the threat.
So what can we do? And by the way, who’s “we”? The size of the threat from climate change means that organization is necessary at every level — communities, states, nations and international agreements that coordinate action among them. But most of us don’t live in the halls of the United Nations or the boardrooms in which the Paris climate agreement was negotiated.

Instead we live in a consumer culture that tells us we can make our political mark on the world through where we shop, what we wear, how we eat. This is how we get things like The Lancet’s recent dietary recommendations for those who want to eat to mitigate climate change — less meat for some, more vegetables — or suggestions like those published in The Washington Post, around the time of New Year’s resolutions. For instance: “Be smart about your air-conditioner.”

But conscious consumption is a cop-out, a neoliberal diversion from collective action, which is what is necessary. People should try to live by their own values, about climate as with everything else, but the effects of individual lifestyle choices are ultimately trivial compared with what politics can achieve.

Buying an electric car is a drop in the bucket compared with raising fuel-efficiency standards sharply. Conscientiously flying less is a lot easier if there’s more high-speed rail around. And if I eat fewer hamburgers a year, so what? But if cattle farmers were required to feed their cattle seaweed, which might reduce methane emissions by nearly 60 percent according to one study, that would make an enormous difference.

That is what is meant when politics is called a “moral multiplier.” It is also an exit from the personal, emotional burden of climate change and from what can feel like hypocrisy about living in the world as it is and simultaneously worrying about its future. We don’t ask people who pay taxes to support a social safety net to also demonstrate that commitment through philanthropic action, and similarly we shouldn’t ask anyone — and certainly not everyone — to manage his or her own carbon footprint before we even really try to enact laws and policies that would reduce all of our emissions.

That is the purpose of politics: that we can be and do better together than we might manage as individuals.

And politics, suddenly, is on fire with climate change. Last fall, in Britain, an activist group with the alarmist name Extinction Rebellion was formed and immediately grew so large it was able to paralyze parts of London in its first major protest. Its leading demand: “Tell the truth.” That imperative is echoed, stateside, by Genevieve Guenther’s organization End Climate Silence, and the climate-change panel’s calls to direct the planet’s resources toward action against warming has been taken up at the grass roots, inspiringly, by Margaret Klein Salamon’s Climate Mobilization project.

Of course, environmental activism isn’t new, and these are just the groups that have arisen over the past few years, pushed into action by climate panic. But that alarm is cascading upward, too. In Congress, Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez of New York has rallied liberal Democrats around a Green New Deal — a call to reorganize the American economy around clean energy and renewable prosperity. Washington State’s governor, Jay Inslee, has more or less declared himself a single-issue presidential candidate.

And while not a single direct question about climate change was asked of either Hillary Clinton or Donald Trump during the 2016 presidential debates, the issue is sure to dominate the Democratic primary in 2020, alongside “Medicare for all” and free college. Michael Bloomberg, poised to spend at least $500 million on the campaign, has said he’ll insist that any candidate the party puts forward has a concrete plan for the climate.

This is what the beginning of a solution looks like — though only a very beginning, and only a partial solution. We have probably squandered the opportunity to avert two degrees of warming, but we can avert three degrees and certainly all the terrifying suffering that lies beyond that threshold.

But the longer we wait, the worse it will get. Which is one last argument for catastrophic thinking: What creates more sense of urgency than fear?

Mr. Wallace-Wells is the author of the forthcoming “The Uninhabitable Earth: Life After Warming.”


TRADUCTION (Courrier international)👇

jeudi 7 mars 2019

EXAM (2019)

Your group will give an oral presentation of 15 minutes on one of the following topics:

1) How can the world's problems be solved?
2) What is poverty, why does it exist, and how can it be alleviated?
3) What are the ways of dealing with malnutrition?
4) How can the individual be encouraged to help fight climate change?

You must make use of the texts from this blog or studied in class as well as  documents you will have found yourselves.

Your mark will take into account the:
  • quality of English
  • clarity of the presentation
  • quantity and breadth of research
  • convincing (original) ideas

mercredi 6 mars 2019

CLIMATE ACTION


Is it too late to do anything about climate change?

Don’t despair – climate change catastrophe can still be averted.

Article by Simon Lewis published in The Guardian
Tuesday 7th August 2018

The future looks fiery and dangerous, according to new reports. But political will and grassroots engagement can change this…

This is the summer when, for many, climate change got real. The future looks fiery and dangerous. Hot on the heels of Trump, fake news and the parlous state of the Brexit negotiations, despair is in the air. Now a new scientific report makes the case that even fairly modest future carbon dioxide emissions could set off a cascade of catastrophe, with melting permafrost releasing methane to ratchet up global temperatures enough to drive much of the Amazon to die off, and so on in a chain reaction around the world that pushes Earth into a terrifying new hothouse state from which there is no return. Civilisation as we know it would surely not survive. How do we deal with such news?

As a research scientist in this field, I can give some nuance to the headlines. One common way of thinking about climate change is the lower the future carbon dioxide emissions, the less warming and the less havoc we will face as this century progresses. This is certainly true, but as the summer heatwave and the potential hothouse news remind us, the shifts in climate we will experience will not be smooth, gradual and linear changes. They may be fast, abrupt, and dangerous surprises may happen. However, an unstoppable globally enveloping cascade of catastrophe, while possible, is certainly not a probable outcome.

Yet, even without a hothouse we are on track to transform Earth this century. The world, after 30 years of warnings, has barely got to grips with reducing carbon dioxide emissions. They need to rapidly decline to zero, but after decades of increases, are, at best, flatlining, with investments in extracting new fossil fuels continuing, including last month’s scandalous announcement that fracking will be allowed in the UK. Temperatures have increased just 1C above preindustrial levels, and we are on course for another 2C or 3C on top of that. Could civilisation weather this level of warming?

The honest answer is nobody knows. Dystopia is easy to envisage: for example, Europe is not coping well with even modest numbers of migrants, and future flows look likely to increase substantially as migration itself is an adaptation to rapid climate change. How will the cooler, richer parts of the world react to tens of millions of people escaping the hotter, poorer parts? Throw into the mix long-term stagnating incomes for most people across the west and climate-induced crop failures causing massive food price spikes and we have a recipe for widespread unrest that could overload political institutions.

It is then easy to see these intersecting crises dovetailing with calls from the new far-right populists for strong authoritarian leaders to solve these problems. Inward-looking nationalists could then move further away from the internationalism needed to ensure the continuation of stable global food supplies and to manage migration humanely. And without cooperative internationalism serious carbon dioxide mitigation will not happen, meaning the underlining drivers of the problems will exacerbate, leading to a lock-in of a deteriorating, isolationist, fascist future.

However, taking a step back from the gloom, we face the same three choices in response to climate change as we did before this scorching summer: reduce greenhouse gas emissions (mitigation), make changes to reduce the adverse impacts of the new conditions we create (adaptation), or suffer the consequences of what we fail to mitigate or adapt to. It is useful to come back to these three options, and settle on the formula that serious mitigation and wise adaptation means little suffering.

Despite this basic advice being decades old, we are heading for some mitigation, very little adaptation, and a lot of suffering. Why is this happening? This is because while the diagnosis of climate change being a problem is a scientific issue, the response to it is not. Leaving fossil fuels in the ground is, for example, a question of regulation, while investing in renewable energy is a policy choice, and modernising our housing stock to make it energy efficient is about overcoming the lobbying power of the building industry. Solving climate change is about power, money, and political will.

And that means talking about climate change and engaging in politics at all levels. One way to put climate change centre stage in the next general election could be to approach the candidates of key marginal seats to discuss whether they would support serious climate-related legislation. In return hundreds of supporters of climate legislation would door-knock and leaflet these constituencies to support them. A serious grassroots conversation would occur, it would become an election issue, and a large group of people outside parliament and inside it would be poised to lobby for the necessary transformative legislation on mitigation and adaptation.

Thinking about climate change as a practical political problem helps avoid despair because we know that huge political changes have happened in the past and continue to do so. The future is up to us if we act collectively and engage in politics. To quote Antonio Gramsci: “I’m a pessimist because of intelligence, but an optimist because of will.” Looked at this way, we can see the politics as a battle between a future shaped by fear versus a future shaped by hope.

That hope is built on a better story of the future and routes to enact it. The outline of this story is that given the colossal wealth and the scientific knowledge available today, we can solve many of the world’s pressing problems and all live well. Given that our environmental impacts are so long-lasting, the future is the politics we make today.

Simon Lewis is professor of global change science at University College London and the Univesity of Leeds, and co-authored The Human Planet: How We Created the Anthropocene (Pelican) with Mark Maslin.

Traduction de l'article (Courrier international):

Changement climatique. Pourquoi il ne faut pas désespérer…

Article par Simon Lewis publié dans The Guardian (Londres)

Mardi 7 août 2018

Face au constat d’une planète en surchauffe, l’avenir semble effrayant. Mais l’engagement citoyen et la volonté politique peuvent changer la donne, estime ce chercheur.

Cet été est celui où, pour beaucoup d’entre nous, le changement climatique est devenu une réalité. L’avenir semble aussi fiévreux que dangereux. Après Trump, les fake news et les périlleuses négociations autour du Brexit, certains commencent à désespérer. Et voilà qu’une nouvelle étude scientifique affirme que la réduction – modeste ou non – des émissions de dioxyde de carbone [CO2] ne suffirait pas à empêcher une série de catastrophes : la fonte du permafrost pourrait libérer une telle quantité de méthane que les températures mondiales pourraient exploser, condamner la forêt amazonienne et entraîner une réaction en chaîne susceptible de transformer la planète en véritable four. La civilisation telle que nous la connaissons n’y survivrait pas. Alors que faire ?

En tant que chercheur spécialiste dans ce domaine, je peux apporter quelques nuances à ces informations. Selon la logique la plus répandue, moins nous émettrons de dioxyde de carbone, moins les températures augmenteront et moins nous nous exposerons à des situations de chaos. C’est certainement vrai mais la canicule de cet été nous rappelle que les changements climatiques ne sont ni progressifs, ni linéaires et qu’ils ne se font pas en douceur. Ils peuvent être rapides, brutaux et nous réserver de dangereuses surprises. Reste que, même s’il n’est pas exclu, le scénario de catastrophes mondiales et incontrôlables en cascade n’est pas le plus probable.

Des troubles à grande échelle

Sans forcément la transformer en gigantesque serre, nous sommes en passe de modifier notre planète durant le siècle à venir. Après trente ans de mises en garde, nous commençons à peine à essayer de réduire nos émissions de CO2. Alors qu’il faudrait rapidement les amener à zéro après des décennies d’augmentation, ces émissions stagnent (au mieux) tandis que l’on continue d’investir dans l’extraction d’énergies fossiles. Le Royaume-Uni a annoncé le mois dernier l’autorisation – scandaleuse – des techniques de fracturation hydraulique sur son territoire [pour extraire des hydrocarbures]. Les températures n’ont augmenté que d’un degré depuis l’époque préindustrielle et nous sommes sur le point d’y ajouter deux ou trois degrés. La civilisation peut-elle encaisser un tel choc ?

Honnêtement, personne ne le sait. Il est facile d’imaginer des scénarios dystopiques : l’Europe, par exemple, est déjà déstabilisée par l’arrivée de quelques migrants et leur nombre devrait considérablement augmenter, le changement climatique condamnant de nombreuses populations à l’exil. Comment réagiront les habitants de ces pays riches et relativement tempérés lorsque des millions de personnes chercheront à fuir les régions les plus chaudes et les plus pauvres du monde ? Ajoutez à cela une longue stagnation des revenus dans la plupart des pays occidentaux et des intempéries capables de ruiner des récoltes et de provoquer de brutales hausses des prix de l’alimentation et vous avez tout ce qu’il faut pour générer des troubles à grande échelle et bousculer les institutions politiques.

L’impasse d’un futur dégradé

On devine facilement comment ces crises pourraient opportunément servir les nouveaux populistes d’extrême droite pour qui il faut des dirigeants forts et autoritaires pour régler ces problèmes. Repliés sur eux-mêmes, ces nationalistes pourraient s’éloigner encore un peu plus de la coopération internationale dont nous avons besoin pour assurer le maintien des approvisionnements mondiaux en denrées alimentaires et gérer les flux migratoires avec humanité. En l’absence de coopération internationale, nous ne trouverons pas de solution sérieuse aux émissions de dioxyde de carbone. Résultat, les causes premières du problème ne feront que s’aggraver, nous menant droit dans l’impasse d’un futur dégradé, isolationniste et fasciste.

Aujourd’hui, nous sommes confrontés aux trois mêmes choix qu’avant la canicule : réduire les émissions de gaz à effet de serre (réduction), prendre des mesures pour réduire les effets négatifs du nouvel environnement que nous avons créé (adaptation), ou subir les conséquences des phénomènes que nous n’aurons pas réussi à atténuer ou à anticiper. Il est bon de revenir à ces trois options et de convenir qu’une réduction conséquente des émissions polluantes ainsi que de prudentes mesures d’adaptation nous épargneront bien des problèmes.

Alors que cela fait des années que l’on nous serine cet avertissement très simple, nous nous dirigeons vers un peu de réduction, encore moins d’adaptation, et beaucoup de problèmes. Pourquoi ? Parce que si la question du diagnostic est bien un problème scientifique, la réponse au changement climatique, elle, ne l’est pas. Ne pas exploiter les énergies fossiles est une question de réglementation ; investir dans les énergies renouvelables est un choix politique ; et moderniser les logements pour mieux les isoler dépend surtout de la capacité des décideurs à affronter le lobby du bâtiment. Tout est question de pouvoir, d’argent et de volonté politique.

L’engagement d’un grand nombre de personnes

Cela implique de parler du changement climatique et de s’engager politiquement à tous les niveaux. Pour placer le changement climatique au cœur des débats avant les prochaines élections, on pourrait demander aux candidats des circonscriptions disputées s’ils sont prêts à légiférer sur le sujet. Des centaines de militants, favorables à cette législation, iraient ensuite démarcher les électeurs en leur nom. Un dialogue s’ouvrirait au niveau de la base, cela deviendrait un thème de campagne et l’on pourrait compter sur l’engagement d’un grand nombre de personnes, à l’intérieur et à l’extérieur du Parlement, pour plaider la cause de cette législation nécessaire sur la réduction des émissions polluantes et l’adaptation au changement climatique.

Voir le changement climatique comme un problème politique concret permet de ne pas désespérer car nous savons que d’importants bouleversements politiques se sont produits par le passé et continuent à se produire. L’avenir nous appartient si nous agissons collectivement et si nous nous engageons sur le terrain politique. Comme le disait [le philosophe italien] Antonio Gramsci : “J’ai le pessimisme de l’intelligence et l’optimisme de la volonté”. Vu sous cet angle, on peut considérer la politique comme le combat entre un futur fondé sur la peur et un futur nourri par l’espoir.

Cet espoir repose sur la possibilité d’une meilleure issue et les moyens d’y parvenir. Compte tenu des connaissances scientifiques et de la prodigieuse richesse à notre disposition, nous sommes en mesure de résoudre bon nombre des grands problèmes de la planète tout en vivant tous confortablement. Sachant que nos actes ont des conséquences durables sur notre environnement, l’avenir dépend des choix politiques que nous faisons aujourd’hui.

lundi 4 mars 2019

Malnutrition in France...

Image result for fast food logos

From escargots to le Big Mac: how the land of haute cuisine fell for fast food
By Jon Henley in The Observer, Saturday 29 Sep 2018

The rise of the burger (albeit often posh) is changing old dining habits. But MPs fear for France’s health.

French food: so good that the wise heads at UNESCO declared it part of the world’s intangible cultural heritage, so celebrated that the love of it defined a nation.

“Tell me what you eat and I will tell you what you are,” as the original foodie, the gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, put it in 1825. And he was somebody who undoubtedly knew his lentilles vertes du Puy et caviar from his langoustines à la nageand his poulette du perche from his poitrine de grive.

For years, France’s eating habits – and not just in restaurants – have been a model: portion control; lots of basics (eggs, butter, bread, potatoes); little processed or fast foods; plenty of fish, fruit, vegetable oils and (of course) full-fat dairy; structured, convivial, family-centred meals. French women, after all, do not get fat.

So why, last week, did a new report suggest that 30 million people – nearly half the country’s population – could be obese by 2030? And how come, on a sunny lunchtime in early autumn, there is a queue outside McDonald’s – one of 1,440 in France, the chain’s second-biggest global market – on the Boulevard des Italiens in central Paris?

“I can’t believe you’re asking this,” said Stephane Loiseau, a 29-year-old account manager tapping his order – “un CBO” (chicken, bacon, onion) with fries – into the touchscreen. “It’s such a cliché. They’re cheap, they’re fast, they use pretty OK ingredients. Why should the French be any different from the rest of the world?”

Natalie Girardot, a sales assistant at a nearby jeweller’s store, was equally dismissive. “You know they use all-French ingredients?” she said, pointing at her tray. “Look: Charolais beef, fourme d’Ambert cheese on the top. Plus a proper vinaigrette. France loves McDonald’s. It always has done.”

That’s not strictly true. Twenty years ago next year, a pipe-smoking, mustachioed sheep farmer called José Bové famously dismantled a half-built McDonald’s at Millau in southern France with a group of fellow smallholders and ex-hippies, launching a national crusade against la malbouffe – junk food.

But now France loves burgers: a survey published earlier this year by consultancy Gira Conseil showed the country’s 66 million people consumed 1.46 billion of them in 2017 – nearly 10% more than the previous year. Perhaps more remarkably, burgers now feature on the menus of 85% of French restaurants. Not that you’d call them malbouffe. At L’Artisan du Burger on rue du Faubourg Poissonnière, burgers with ingredients including rocket, lime zest, reblochon cheese, compote of red onions and a smoked spice sauce cost €12 (more if you want them in a squid-ink bun topped with nigella or black cumin seeds).

“They’re part of our national cuisine now,” said Sara Vérier, a bank worker and frequent restaurant-goer. “Almost every place – even some really quite smart ones – does at least one. You get nice French touches: a wedge of foie gras, roquefort. Sometimes even truffles.”

Bernard Boutboul, Gira Conseil’s managing director, describes the burger’s seemingly unstoppable rise in France as “a euphoria, a craze” that has now started to verge on “hysteria”, with posh burgers outselling French bistro classics such as duck breast and boeuf bourguignon in many restaurants.

Yet the vast majority of burgers consumed in France – 70% – are far from fast food. They are eaten sitting at a table, with (often) a glass of wine, in a “proper” restaurant. Which does not mean the home of haute cuisine has not fallen for fast food: it has. French eating habits are changing.

Increasing time pressure (no more two-hour lunches; the average French worker now takes a 31-minute break at midday, according to one survey) and the emergence of home-delivery services such as Deliveroo and UberEats have seen the country’s fast-food sector expand exponentially.

France’s 32,000 fast-food outlets booked sales of about €51bn last year – 6% more than in 2016, 13% up on four years ago, and almost three times the figure in 2005. What’s more, they now represent 60% of the entire French restaurant business.

Fast food “doesn’t necessarily mean you don’t eat well,” said Josiane Bouvier, a geography teacher, emerging from Nous, an organic takeaway on rue du Châteaudun, with an unFrench-sounding “hotbox” of grilled chicken, mint yoghurt sauce, seasonal salad and wholegrain rice. “I think many French people who go even to fast-food places are very conscious of the quality of ingredients, and whether dishes are really made on the premises,” she said. “But that’s if you can afford 9, 10 or 12 euros for lunch out.”

And there’s the thing. Good food is no longer cheap in France – in restaurants or at home. The country’s food processing and distribution firms are big and powerful. French eating habits, the national food agency Anses says, are no longer a model: now it involves more and more highly processed foods, too much salt, and not enough fibre.

For all its particular relationship to food, France is far from immune to la malbouffe. MPs reported last week that as many as 30 million French people, mainly in lower-income households, will be obese or overweight by 2030 unless big food firms slash salt, sugar, fat and other additives and children are educated to eat more healthily.

“French families spend less money and less time on their food than ever before,” said one MP, Loïc Prud’homme. “We need to take back control of our plates.”

Another, Michèle Crouzet, who has campaigned for less salt in food, was blunter. The French “are not dying of too much food,” she said, “but little by little, the food we eat is killing us.”

Traduction de l'article (Courrier international):

En France, le burger a remplacé l’escargot.

Article de Jon Henley publié le 12/10/2018 dans The Observer (Londres)

La cuisine française. Un tel trésor gustatif que les responsables de l’Unesco, dans leur infinie sagesse, l’ont inscrite au patrimoine culturel immatériel de l’humanité. Un tel régal que l’adoration qu’elle suscite a défini l’identité de toute une nation.

“Dis-moi ce que tu manges, je te dirai ce que tu es”, disait le gastronome Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, en 1825. Un homme dont l’érudition culinaire se vérifiait aussi bien sur un plat de lentilles du Puy que sur une cuillère de caviar, des langoustines à la nage, une poulette du Perche ou une poitrine de grive.

Pendant des années, les habitudes alimentaires des Français – et pas seulement au restaurant – ont été érigées en modèle : portions raisonnables, variété des produits de base (œufs, beurre, pain, pommes de terre), peu de produits transformés et poissons, fruits et légumes à foison, sans oublier les produits laitiers (au lait entier évidemment) ; le tout servi autour d’une table, en famille, pour un moment de convivialité. Car comme vous le savez, les Françaises ne grossissent pas.

Les sirènes de McDo

Mais alors pourquoi un rapport paru en septembre annonce-t-il que 30 millions de Français – soit près de la moitié de la population – pourraient souffrir d’obésité d’ici 2030 ? Et comment expliquer la présence, en un bel après-midi d’automne, d’une immense queue devant le McDo du boulevard des Italiens, en plein cœur de Paris ?

“J’arrive pas à croire que vous me demandiez ça, s’esclaffe Stéphane Loiseau, attaché de clientèle de 29 ans, en tapotant sur un écran pour entrer sa commande – un CBO (poulet, bacon, oignon) avec des frites. C’est tellement cliché. Ici, c’est pas cher, c’est rapide, les ingrédients sont à peu près OK. Pourquoi les Français seraient-ils différents du reste du monde ?”

Natalie Girardot, vendeuse dans un magasin de bijoux du quartier, partage cet avis. “Vous savez qu’ils utilisent des produits français ? lance-t-elle en désignant son plateau. Regardez : bœuf charolais et fourme d’Ambert. Et une vraie vinaigrette. Les Français adorent McDo. Ça a toujours été comme ça.”

Ce qui n’est pas tout à fait exact. Il y a vingt ans, armé de sa pipe et de sa moustache, José Bové et un groupe de petits producteurs et de vieux hippies s’en étaient pris au chantier d’un McDonald’s à Millau, dans le sud de la France, lançant une grande croisade nationale contre la malbouffe.

Aujourd’hui, la France aime les burgers : selon une étude publiée récemment par le cabinet Gira Conseil, les Français ont consommé 1,46 milliard de hamburgers en 2017, soit près de 10 % de plus que l’année précédente. Plus étonnant encore, les burgers figurent à présent au menu de 85 % des restaurants français. Mais ces burgers n’appartiennent pas à la catégorie malbouffe. À l’Artisan du Burger, rue du Faubourg-Poissonnière, on sert des sandwichs composés de roquette, zeste de citron vert, reblochon, compotée d’oignons rouges et sauce fumée aux épices pour 12 euros (ou plus si vous optez pour le pain à l’encre de seiche et aux graines de nigelle).

Pour Bernard Boutboul, directeur de Gira Conseil, l’irrésistible ascension du burger en France ressemble à “une frénésie” frisant désormais “l’hystérie”. Les nouveaux burgers chics ont supplanté les classiques des bistrots comme le bœuf bourguignon ou les magrets de canard au palmarès de nombreux restaurants.

Des rythmes de vie qui changent

L’immense majorité des burgers consommés en France – 70 % – ne relèvent toutefois pas de la restauration rapide. Ils sont consommés à table, (souvent) accompagnés d’un verre de vin, dans un “vrai” restaurant. Ce qui ne signifie pas pour autant que le berceau de la grande gastronomie a su résister aux sirènes du fast-food. Car les habitudes des Français sont en train de changer.

Avec l’accélération des rythmes de vie (finie la pause déjeuner de deux heures, d’après une étude, le salarié français moyen ne prend plus que trente et une minutes pour manger le midi) et l’apparition des services de livraison comme Deliveroo ou UberEats, le secteur de la restauration rapide a explosé.

Fort de 32 000 établissements en France, ce secteur a enregistré un chiffre d’affaires de près de 51 millions d’euros l’an dernier, soit une hausse de 6 % par rapport à 2016 et de 13 % par rapport à 2014, et multiplié ses ventes par trois par rapport à 2005. Il représente désormais 60 % du secteur de la restauration en général.

La restauration rapide “n’est pas nécessairement synonyme de malbouffe”, affirme Josiane Bouvier, professeur de géographie, en sortant de chez Nous, un restaurant de plats bio à emporter, situé rue de Châteaudun. Dans son sac, une hotbox de poulet grillé, sauce yaourt à la menthe, salade de saison et riz entier.

Et c’est bien là le problème. Les bons produits – au restaurant ou à la maison – ne sont plus à portée de toutes les bourses en France. Les entreprises de l’agroalimentaire sont puissantes dans l’Hexagone. À en croire l’Agence nationale de sécurité sanitaire (Anses), les habitudes alimentaires des Français ne sont plus un modèle : on y trouve de plus en plus de produits transformés, trop de sel et pas assez de fibres.

En dépit de sa relation si particulière à la nourriture, la France n’est pas immunisée contre la malbouffe. La semaine dernière, des députés affirmaient que 30 millions de Français, la plupart touchant de faibles revenus, pourraient être obèses ou en surpoids d’ici 2030 si les entreprises de l’agroalimentaire ne réduisent pas leur utilisation de sel, de sucre, de graisses et d’autres additifs et si les enfants n’apprennent pas à manger plus sainement.

“Les Français n’ont jamais consacré aussi peu d’argent et aussi peu de temps à leur alimentation, estime le député Loïc Prud’homme. Nous devons reprendre le contrôle de nos assiettes.”

Michèle Crouzet, qui prône une réduction du sel dans l’alimentation, est plus directe. Les Français “ne meurent pas d’un excès de nourriture, explique-t-elle, mais ce que nous mangeons est en train de nous tuer à petit feu”.

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